Bangkok to Luang Prabang the Slow Way, and Why I'm Finally Going

Filed in Southeast Asia 1.3K views Bangkok, Thailand

Aerial view of Luang Prabang and the Nam Khan River bridge surrounded by mountains, Laos

I've taken the overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai more times than I can count. For years that meant boarding at grand old Hua Lamphong, the century-old station in the middle of the city. These days the sleepers leave from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal instead; the station changed, but the ritual didn't. You settle into your seat, and as the evening rolls on the staff come through and convert everything into bunks. By the time you're horizontal Thailand is already rolling past the window in the dark.

This October I'm doing it again, but this time the train is just the beginning.

Always book a 2nd class air conditioned sleeper, not first class. First class compartments are designed for a group or couple travelling together; you book the whole thing. Second class is open plan, you can wander, chat with travelers, watch the small villages and stations roll by. It's the right way to do it. And when you wake up, you'll find yourself in the middle of the jungle somewhere between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. It's one of those quiet moments that makes you glad you took the train. Grab breakfast or a coffee in the cafe car. They often have the windows open. Upper bunk is cheaper and better, with less foot traffic past you through the night.

The plan is Bangkok to Chiang Mai by overnight train, then north to the border at Huay Xai, and from there onto the Mekong. Two days on the slow boat up to Luang Prabang. I've been on the Chao Phraya more times than I can count, but the Mekong slow boat is something I haven't done yet.

Luang Prabang has been on my list for a long time. I've been to Vientiane (mostly for visa runs from Thailand), but the north has always been the one I kept putting off.

Why now, and why Luang Prabang specifically

There's a place there called the Luang Prabang Public Library. They run something called the Library Boats: actual boats that travel the Mekong and its tributaries bringing books to children in remote villages along the river. Kids who have no other access to books, let alone a library.

I'm going to visit them, do an interview, and make a donation. It's not a big production, just something I wanted to do in person rather than from a keyboard in Florida.

The route, if you want to do it yourself

This is one of the great overland journeys in Southeast Asia and it's very doable sober: no gap year party boat vibes, just incredible scenery and local life.

Bangkok → Chiang Mai overnight train: departs Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal (not Hua Lamphong anymore — they moved the long-distance trains in 2023). See Seat61.com for the full guide; book on the State Railway's D-Ticket site or 12Go. Around 800 baht for a 2nd class air-con sleeper. Upper bunk recommended: cheaper and less foot traffic.
Chiang Mai → Huay Xai: bus or minivan north to the border, cross into Laos. Visa on arrival available for most nationalities.
Huay Xai → Luang Prabang slow boat: two days on the Mekong, one overnight stop in Pak Beng. Bring snacks, a good book, and something to sit on. The scenery does everything else.